Castro Moves Into the Havana Hilton

“History always dresses us for the wrong occasions.” —Ricardo Pau-Llosa Camera Obscura The afternoon lightening his shadow, Fidel descends from the mountains, the clean-shaven lawyer turned guerilla, his eyes focused on infinity, El Jefe Máximo con sus Barbudos, rebels with rosary beads on their 600-mile procession across the island with campesinos on horseback, flatbed trucks, tanks, a new year’s journey down the oldest roads towards betrayal. Ambient light. Available light Light inside of them, nameless isleños line El Malecón to touch Fidel, already defining himself in black and white. The dramatic sky moving in for the close-up that will frame his all-night oratory, he turns to the crowd, variations on an enigma, waving from his pulpit with rehearsed eloquence, a dove on his shoulder. This is a photograph. This is not a sign. Flash-on camera. Celebrity portraits. 1.     Fidel on a balcony across the street from Grand Central Station, an American flag above his head, New York, 1959. 2.     Fidel made small by the Lincoln Memorial, Washington D.C., 1959. 3.     Fidel learning to ski, a minor black ball against a white landscape, Russia, 1962. 4.     Fidel and shotgun, hunting with Nikita, Russia, 1962. Circles of Confusion Beyond photographs, Havana is looted and burned. Women weep at out wailing wall, El Paredón, where traitors are taken, and television cameras shoot the executions, this blood soup, the paradoxes of our lives, three years before I am born. Photoflood But it is late afternoon, and a shower of confetti and serpentine falls from every floor of the Havana Hilton, where history is a giant piñata, where at midnight, Fidel will be photographed eating a ham sandwich.